A cargo-style pocket combines an accessible opening with extra room in the pocket body. This exercise uses a centre pleat and a separate flap; it teaches placement and assembly without drafting an entire pair of trousers. Make it on a flat practice panel first. The example dimensions are for that sample, not replacement pieces for a commercial garment pattern.
1. Cut the practice pieces
Use medium-weight woven cotton, matching thread, a ruler, washable marker, iron and a suitable sewing-machine needle. Cut one pocket rectangle 22 cm wide by 22 cm high, two flap rectangles 20 cm by 7 cm and a base panel at least 30 cm by 35 cm. Add light interfacing to one flap layer if your fabric needs support; test the bond on a scrap.
The intended finished pocket is 16 cm wide by 18 cm high. Its width includes 4 cm of pleat intake and 1 cm at each side. Its height includes 3 cm for the upper hem and 1 cm at the bottom. The flap uses 1 cm allowances and finishes approximately 18 cm wide by 5 cm deep after attachment.
2. Form the centre pleat
Mark vertical lines 9 cm, 11 cm and 13 cm from the pocket's left edge. The middle line is the centre. On the right side, bring the two outer marked lines together at the centre to form an inverted box pleat. Press the folds and check that the rectangle now measures 18 cm across before turning the side allowances.
Baste across the pleat near the top and bottom raw edges, inside the future allowances. Leave the central length free so it can open. If the pleat looks uneven, flatten the piece and recheck the marks before sewing further.
3. Finish the pocket opening and edges
Turn the top edge 1 cm to the wrong side, then turn another 2 cm. Press and stitch near the lower fold. Finish the side and bottom raw edges with an appropriate zigzag or overlock, then press each 1 cm allowance inward. Check the finished outline against a paper rectangle measuring 16 cm by 18 cm.
A pressing template helps maintain matching edges, a technique demonstrated in BERNINA's patch-pocket lesson. Keep the corner folds compact and avoid pushing a sharp tool through the fabric. Pressing establishes the outline that the later topstitching will follow.
4. Prepare the flap
Place the flap layers right sides together. Sew the two short sides and lower long edge with 1 cm allowances, leaving the upper long edge open. Trim corner bulk without cutting the stitches, turn and press. Topstitch the finished sides and lower edge. Check that the flap covers the pocket width with a little overlap at both sides.
Keep the open upper edge unfinished until attachment. For this first sample, leave off snaps and buttons so you can concentrate on pocket alignment. Add a closure to a later sample using its manufacturer's reinforcement and installation instructions.
5. Position and attach on the flat panel
Mark the pocket centre and a level mouth line on the base panel. Baste the pocket in place, then stitch down one side, across the bottom and up the other side, leaving the top open. Pivot with the needle lowered at corners. Keep the panel smooth underneath and avoid catching the free centre pleat.
Reinforce the upper corners using a small triangle or another appropriate reinforcement tested on scraps. BERNINA discusses several options in the same pocket lesson. Place the flap above the opening, finished lower edge pointing upward and right side against the panel. Position its attachment seam about 1 cm above the pocket mouth. Sew the open upper edge with its 1 cm allowance, fold the flap down and topstitch to cover the raw attachment edge.
6. Check before applying to trousers
Slide your hand in, open the pleat and check that the flap closes freely. Compare both pocket positions on a basted garment before sewing permanently. Attach while the relevant trouser panel is accessible; catching the opposite leg layer is easy on an assembled garment.
The Sewlore Men's Cargo Pants listing offers pattern preparation after purchase. Its prepared pattern determines actual pocket dimensions, placement and assembly order. This exercise does not replace that technical pattern. Review preparation and delivery before ordering.